Westward ho!

 Sunday, May 28: Pukaskwa National Park

We are finally heading directly west... only a couple thousand kilometres to go! We had planned to drive maybe 5 or 6 hours today, but we "paused" for lunch after about 3 hours at Pukaskwa National Park on the north shore of Lake Superior, and couldn't leave, it was so lovely.

Once settled in to the pretty basic campsite, we took a "one hour moderate hike" out to the lake. Turned out to be somewhat longer for us old buddies, but still a pretty walk along beach, scrub forest, some muddy bits and a Soames Hill style stairways to some beautiful lookouts. The weather, as you can see, is quite lovely now, though still chilly in the morning and evening.

The campground had a laundromat which we took advantage of this evening.









Here is your hard bitten correspondent in the boring little wifi zone!

Monday, May 29: Thunderation!

Pat did get to see her Moose last night. Seriously though, we did see a couple of female Moose (Mice?) at the side of the highway today, but not quick enough to get a photo.

The morning today was driving toward Thunder Bay... the first hour or two was very picturesque spectacular views of Lake Superior and the north coastal islands. We did find a nice little lakeside park for morning coffee.


The last hour or so was a lot of road construction. We did tour into Thunder Bay in search of an elusive Starbucks.... what can I say nice about Thunder Bay? Well, it was nice to find the road outta there. I guess one can't complain, someone's gotta ship the grain and cut the logs.
We did decide to stop a bit early again today, at the magnificent Kakabeka Falls Campground. Not only are the Falls spectacular, but the history that goes with them is breathtaking... this was  a portage on the main route of the Voyageurs into the prairies and the west. David Thomson would have passed through here on his way to the Pacific, as well as the British forces en route to quell the Red River revolt.





And here is our campsite.... very quiet but for the rushing river... no other campers to be seen from our basic little site.


Tuesday, May 30. Hawk Lake, Manitoba

As I write we are experiencing our first prairie thunderstorm of this trip. So dark at 6:30 pm we are using flashlights. Big raindrops and thunder and lightening as we kill off the mosquitoes that snuck in as the doors were briefly opened.
Nice day though, driving from near Thunder Bay to an hour short of Winnipeg. Feels good to be finally progressing into another province, though our 9 days in Ontario were certainly worthwhile. There was nothing particularly exciting about the drive today, though it wasn't as deadly boring as we'd expected. We stopped for shopping in Dryden, and picnic lunched in the mall parking lot. Then stopped in Kenora mid afternoon to stretch our legs with a 30 minute stroll along the waterfront and couple of blocks of the old downtown. Pretty enough, though much of the approach was endless malls and service industries.

Prairie storm first in Dryden:

Quite warm and sunny in Kenora:

And the storm developing over Hawk Lake as we approached:

Hawk Lake, where we are camped, is unique in that it was created by a meteorite a few tens of thousands of years ago instead of the glacier carvings of the other prairie lakes. Hopefully we can have a better look in the morning apres la deluge.

May 31: Winnipeg:

Drove a pretty long and straight highway to Winnipeg this morning. I was greeted with this view, 18 inches from my nose in the upper bunk. Only 2 or 3 had managed to get in from somewhere, so we slept fine.


But we did skedaddle pretty quick outta there in the morning. Along the way we were greeted by this guy. Pat says small wolf, I say large coyote. Whaddya think?


By about 10 am we were in Winnipeg. We've been here a couple of time before in the last decade, but it is always a lovely look around, especially in "The Forks" area. It is no exaggeration that it is one of the most historic geographic locales in all of North America. As the confluence of the Red River and Assiniboine, it was a crucial meeting point, first by the various aboriginal peoples of north Central America, later by the voyageurs, explorers and traders from eastern and southern settlements.
It was also a way point for more recent immigrants such as my Latvian/Polish grandparents. My father's oldest brother was born in Winnipeg in about 1903. 
Here are some of the photos with commentary:

The museum of Human Rights, remarkable architecture! And the most recent bridge cross the river.

Various views of The Forks park and rivers


Louis Riel... controversial scultpture which was moved a while ago from prominent position in the park to this more "discrete" site at St Boniface University




Interior of The Forks Market


The ostentatious Fort Garry Hotel. My socialist bells rang as I tweaked to the irony of the recognition of Louis Riel fighting for the Métis independence from the British colonists... and this symbol of who actually won!
Pat is standing by a remarkable wall with depictions of the early periods of Winnipeg. Again... irony upon irony as it was sponsored by Manitoba Liquor and Lottery Corp.... ultimately profiteers on the most vulnerable amongst us, and of course a scourge on the Métis. Oh well, still a very interesting mural.

Interior of the Hotel.

But this mural in clear view of the entrance to the Fort Garry Hotel gave me a bit of relief!

Another  90 minute drive westward to near Portage La Prairie and this lovely municipal campground. We have found the municipal and provincial campgrounds to be delightful.. cheap ($35 for this one) with wifi, electric, showers, and so far this season almost empty. We are the only ones here!
















Comments

  1. Well, we want the two of you back on the Coast, but I am loving the road reports and feel sorry they'll stop when you get here!

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  2. Winnipeg being the home of my youth, and Western Ontario being the site of many family trips, your blog brought a smile to my lips (the mosquitoes in particular), and a nostalgic tear to my eye (just being reminded of those iconic buildings, monuments, historical tidbits - and the STORMS, oh, the storms!!!)

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